Hot Take: Our Taste For Peak Milk Signifies Inherited Classism
“You, as a food buyer, have the distinct privilege of proactively participating in shaping the world your children will inherit.”
Understanding Food Privilege
“All animals are equal, but some are more equal than others” is a profound statement from George Orwell’s 1945 novel, Animal Farm. The novella is an allegorical satire which highlights the ease of abuse of power between a ruling class - the pigs in this case - and a ruled class - the rest of the farm animals. Although many societal misfortunes may be lifted from this statement, at first glance, it establishes one thing; privilege.
Privilege, as defined by the Cambridge Dictionary, is an advantage that only one person or a group of people has, usually because of their position or because they are rich. Privileges can be observed in any and all ramifications of life. From unqualified individuals landing jobs by virtue of their powerful last names to exclusive transportation via private jets, privilege can be observed in all spheres of society.
Although privileges exist in numerous spheres of society, one sphere many pay very little attention to are our privileges when it comes to food. Strange as it may seem, food privilege is an existing phenomenon in Nigeria and around the globe. Our tastes for certain food items can be linked to the privileges we may or may not have experienced as a result of being raised in one social class and fitting into another one after gaining independence from our collective familial class. Simply put, a person or group’s position or income may allow them to consume certain types of food, whereas, persons or groups with lower income may only be able to aspire to eat certain food items while managing available options.
Classism In Nigerian Culture: The Preeminence of Status Symbols & Its Relation to Food
Classism.org defines classism as differential treatment based on social class or perceived social class. It is the systematic oppression of subordinated class groups based on social class.
Despite the existing unifying factors, Nigeria and Nigerians are separated by several social and cultural ‘isms’; tribalism, sexism, ageism and of course, classism. Nigeria is a deeply classist society. Historically, even in our separate cultures, there are clear demarcations between the class deemed superior and those deemed inferior. These class distinctions can be observed historically, one of such instances being the Osu caste system in the Igbo community, where social interactions and marriage between the Osu, outcasts dedicated to the Alusis (deities), and the Nwadiala (free-borns) were deftly prohibited.
In present times, class distinction is fueled by status symbols. There are several, albeit curious, indicators of class distinction in Nigeria and particularly in Lagos state. From the prejudiced takes on places of residency (the petty mainland vs island debates) and choices of mobile devices to the subtle but symbolic playful quips like “do you know who I am?” and “who’s your daddy?”, Nigeria today is fraught with status symbols.
Notwithstanding the fact that one may seldom make the correlation, class distinction and symbolism is present in our food cultures and practices. Nigeria’s own brand of food privilege manifests in several ways. One of its more prominent examples is certain social classes reserving specific food items for special occasions whereas the others consume these without stress or strain. Another prominent example is brand symbolism. With brand symbolism, branded food items which are widely used amongst members of a certain social class are deemed status symbols to the class they are associated with. Here, you will find Peak Milk.
Peak Milk: The Unlikely Status Symbol
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The experience of food is a unifying factor. While the more obvious bonds through food can be observed between races, tribes and clans, there exists a unity through foods eaten within separate social classes within these races, tribes, and clans. By sharing a common food experience, people are bound to each other in solidarity of sorts. For instance, the aje butters, perceived to lead a much more pleasant lifestyle, are classified as those who are able to afford the ‘luxury’ of Peak Milk whereas the aje pakos often fall under the class of those can only dream of the delicious product trailing down their throats.
In adulthood, this bond is predominantly expressed in the comparison between ajepako vs ajebutter experiences; where people make assertions such as “Eww, what the fuck is Eruku Oshodi?”, or “You never ate struggle NYSC camp food? You’re such a soft ajebutter”.
Dominating the Nigerian market for over 60 years, Peak Milk is the golden child of FrieslandCampina WAMCO Nigeria PLC. An affiliate of Royal FrieslandCampina in the Netherlands, this company is behind the creation of other dairy and cereal products including Friso and Three Crowns.
Peak Milk has remarkably dominated the local dairy industry for the past 60 years. While its domination may be attributed to the quality of the product, social perceptions are a pivotal aspect of its mainstream success. For many, the choice to continue to consume Peak Milk, despite the availability of several cheaper and even more nutritious powdered milk brands, is not as a result of its own qualities, but as a result of its social perception. It is perceived as better, healthier and more nutritious because it is widely utilised by a certain class of individuals, giving the classes below them an object to strive for. It is a status symbol.
Should the average Nigerian be asked what the best powder milk brand on the Nigerian market is, more often than not, the answer would be Peak Milk. Why is Peak Milk the best brand of powdered milk in Nigeria? For most, it is because it represents an aspiration. For others, it is simply because they were told so.
To be quite fair, Peak Milk is an excellent powdered milk brand. By being a full cream powdered milk, Peak is more nutritious than filled milk powders, but it is not the only full cream powdered milk on the Nigerian market.
There are several others which are cheaper and offer excellent nutritional value including Dano Full Cream Milk. Nutritional value is seldom a detail the average Nigerian would take into consideration before purchasing a product and it is less than likely that Peak Milk will be the market’s exception.
To conclude, it is unlikely FrieslandCampina created and introduced Peak Milk to the Nigerian market with the intention of creating a status symbol. Given the amusing characteristics of many Nigerians, one is almost certain that anything may be made into a status symbol of sorts. After all, are we even Nigerians if we don’t feel better than everyone else?