Something in the Lagos air hasn’t been agreeing with my spirit. So, when the first opportunity to get out and spend a few days in Accra presented itself, I took it. Aside from enjoying constant electricity, I've been doing a lot of eating — determined to consume as little KFC as possible (it’s right around the corner from me, and this has admittedly been a difficult feat) and try as much Ghanaian food as possible. Being a newcomer here, it's essential.

I have faltered once or twice — and even went rogue with a trip to the Indomie and egg stand nearby — but for the most part, I’ve stuck to my principles. Oh, I’ve also stayed firmly away from all of that 7 eggs for lunch business! No way, Chale.

Enjoy my 5-day food diary and be inspired.

DAY 1

I had the loveliest Chicken Avocado Quesadilla, with a side of chips and salad at the Balima Skybar and Restaurant, off Oxford Street (which in and of itself is a huge hotspot for every kind of food you’re looking for — from Jollof to shawarma).

After a day spent dealing with the intense heat, it was an excellent way to unwind and enjoy a good meal. The Malta Guinness I had to “wash it down” was interesting, however; it was very different from ours, being more stout-like and less sweet.

DAY 2

On this day, I had one of the top 2 best salads I’ve ever had — in my life. Yet again, avocado was on my plate, but this one also had tuna, sweet corn, crunchy fresh vegetables, and eggs from a place called Get Juicy. Along with the tangy dressing and a bottle of freshly squeezed orange juice, it was an exquisite meal, and I still find myself thinking about it from time to time.

DAY 3

Day 3 was my official initiation into the cuisine of the Gold Coast. With some friends, I went to a Ghanaian/Nigerian restaurant called Buka. I wasn’t going to bypass the kelewele and fufu and go for Nigerian Jollof (that would have been a waste of the experience), so I asked our server for Banku and Okro Soup. It was my first time eating Banku, which was a bit of a 50/50 experience, and that fermented taste isn’t my absolute favourite, but it did work very well with the Okro. Now that was incredible.

It was a delightful Seafood Okro with fresh crabs, fish, pomo, and goat meat — one of the best I’ve ever had.

DAY 4

I’ve had Ghana Jollof here before (on a different trip) and it was lit. That’s that about that. This was my second time trying some, from a roadside, semi buka-style restaurant just outside Accra, whose name I so unfortunately can’t remember — and it still tasted amazing.

When the Jollof landed in front of me, looking deep red and glistening with oil, I knew I was in for a treat. I bypassed the coleslaw completely because I didn’t want any issues, but the 1/4 chicken was fried crisp, well-seasoned, and decent. I could have done with a little less of that sharp, dry crispiness (because all the juices had been sucked out of the meat), but it was still fairly enjoyable for local grub.

It was a big meal and I wasn’t keen on any dinner, so I just had a super chilled Chapman at my hotel restaurant later in the evening, enjoying the lovely view from the rooftop restaurant. Naija Chapman is great (when it’s not N6000), but this one had really lovely layered, fruity flavours and had the added benefit of being very pretty to look at, so it earned top marks.

DAY 5

I succumbed to KFC. Why? The Indomie and egg lady nearby told me she didn’t have change for GH₵100 and get this — the Indomie was already pre-made. What?! In what world does Indomie that’s been cooling for an hour taste good?? What?!

So, I had a Streetwise with chips and it got the job done. Crispy and calorific as hell.

My dinner more than made up for it, though. A friend took me to this lovely outdoor restaurant in East Legon called The Living Room. The menu had lots of inviting-sounding things, but it was Friday night and I was in the mood for something from the grill. I ordered the Tilapia and a side of Yam Chips, and it’s hands down the most delicious thing I had had on this trip.

The fish was gorgeously seasoned, I loved the heap of fresh onions and peppers it was topped with, and my meal also came with three sauces on the side — shito, a tomato sauce, and this beautiful lightly-fried green pepper sauce that I’m going to have to try and recreate at home.