Chishuru: Michelin Star Meets West African Flair
Chishuru, 3 Great Titchfield St., London W1W 8AX, United Kingdom (Reservations). Set lunch menu £45 per person, optional side set +£7, optional mutton sausage starter +£12. Menu: chishuru.com
I’m in England a lot these days so I haven’t really been able to review restaurants in Lagos as much as I’d like, which makes me a bit sad. But, Opeyemi Famakin is there so you guys are in good hands.
Anyway, I’ve decided to try something different instead. Why not review Nigerian or Nigerian-inspired restaurants in London? If Moses can’t go to the mountain, the mountain will come to Moses. Or whatever they said in the bible that year.
My first stop is Chishuru. It’s a name that's been buzzing in London's culinary scene and because it’s the first restaurant run by a Yoruba aunty with a Michelin star, it’s only right.
Chishuru isn't your typical fine dining establishment - it's a place where West African cuisine gets a modern makeover, all while maintaining a "relaxed and homely" vibe.
Originally started as a supper club by chef Adejoké Bakare, Chishuru has come a long way since its inception. It's now a full-fledged restaurant and has managed to snag a coveted Michelin star, proving that West African flavors can hold their own in the world of haute cuisine.
But don't let that star fool you into thinking it's all starched tablecloths and hushed tones. As their website cheekily states, "Yes we have a Michelin star but our style is relaxed and homely, we play music, and some of our customers can get loud - that's who we are." It's this blend of high-quality cuisine and laid-back atmosphere that piqued our interest.
My wife and I hit up Chishuru with a couple of friends for their set lunch menu to see what all the fuss was about. It's £45 per person, which isn't cheap, but hey, Michelin star, right?
Akara - Bean fritter stuffed with okra & candied chillies, fermented rhubarb & chilli sauce
Akara - Bean fritter stuffed with okra & candied chillies, fermented rhubarb & chilli sauce
First up was the Akara. It was nice, but not as good as the one at Akara (the restaurant). Too tempura-ish for my liking. I won’t say it’s trying too hard to be fancy, but it’s a bit… yeah. That said, as a professed akara-hater, I did eat all of it so that should tell you something.
The Sinasir though, that was a hit. It's like massa, but elevated. Really delicious, loved it.
Sinasir - Fermented rice cake with butternut squash purée, compressed cucumber, walnuts
For the main, I went with the Yassa. Funny thing is, it didn't really give me Yassa vibes, but I loved it anyway. Super spicy, which is great if you can handle it. The guinea fowl was incredibly tender.
My wife had the Asaro, which I liked too. The asaro cream, in particular, was spicy too, but in a good way. Their website warns, "If you have no tolerance for spice at all, we recommend choosing a different restaurant, sorry." They're not kidding about the spice levels.
Yassa - Charcoal-grilled guineafowl breast, caramelised onion & lemon sauce, yaji peanut spice
Asaro - Smoked eel, sweet potato cream, yams, pepper relish, purple sprouting broccoli
Back to my main. I ended up dunking some rice and plantain in my Yassa sauce. Used the Yaji peanut sauce like a stew. Might have been a little uncouth, but it was delicious. Sometimes you've got to forget the fancy cutlery and just enjoy the food, you know?
Jollof Rice
Spiced aubergine & butter carrots,
The dessert was interesting. It was like a Fonio ice cream with malt foam. Had Yaji at the bottom, which was a pleasant surprise. Not something you'd expect in a dessert, but it worked.
Overall, I liked the experience, but I'm not sure I'd crave it. It was very okay. Won't be dreaming about it, but wouldn't mind going back either. Chishuru is doing something interesting with West African cuisine. It's not quite traditional, not quite fine dining, but somewhere in between. The flavors are there, but sometimes it feels like they're trying a bit too hard to be innovative.
Go for the experience, stay for the Yaji peanut sauce, and maybe, just maybe, you'll find yourself craving it after all.
Just remember, they're serious about their spice. If you can't handle heat, you might want to sit this one out. This message excludes all the Nigerians in Nigeria sha.
