Stories from the Culinary Frontlines: A Conversation with Chef Bidemi
In the bustling ambience of a restaurant, dinners always find themselves immersed in the experience of it all - the flavors of the food and drinks, the service of the waitstaff and the aesthetics of the space. Yet, amidst the clinking of cutlery and the hum of conversation, there's a hidden narrative that remains unseen – the story of the culinary hands behind the scenes. Behind every dish lies a team of chefs dedicated to the customer’s experience. They transform simple ingredients into culinary masterpieces. In this series, we will be peeling back a layer of anonymity and shining a spotlight on the unsung heroes of Lagos’ culinary scene.
Today with speak with Chef Bidemi Sofuyi, head chef at Grey Matter Social Space and former sous chef at Mood Lagos (FKA Atmosphere Rooftop).
What is the earliest memory of cooking that you have?
Cooking with my mom in the kitchen, that's where it all started. I was in the kitchen with her 70% of the time. We made mostly Amala and beans. Those were my favorite meals so I was always excited to cook them with her.
How did these experiences influence your decision to become a chef?
They actually didn’t. My entry into the culinary world is a funny story. I was once a cashier at a club in Oniru. The owner didn't want me to be a cashier because he didn't trust guys handling his money. So one day, he just randomly moved me to the kitchen.
So you didn’t plan to be a chef before that?
It was never the plan. I don't think I ever thought I would ever want to be a chef. Not at any point. I had no experience working in a kitchen but it seemed like interesting work so I just watched what the chefs were doing and started to learn. After a little while, I took on the role of an expeditor at the kitchen pass; I was the go-between between servers and the kitchen - I passed orders to the chef and when they were ready, I assembled the plates and did a quality check before sending them out. I was determined to keep growing so I continued to learn and got promoted to a CDP (Chef De Partie). My growth was pretty fast.
That’s interesting. What were you cooking?
I worked the grill mainly. I made a lot of steak - Ribeye, Tomahawks, etc. We also had lamb chops, chicken wings and kebabs. It was a short menu.
What personal experiences have shaped your cooking style or culinary philosophy?
Going from Moist beach to Atmosphere Rooftop, now Mood and then to Grey Matter, I worked with some really amazing chefs. They taught me a lot and really helped improve my skill level. I’m also always ready to learn and always ready to try new things. I’m constantly watching food videos. My experience with these chefs and my eagerness to learn have helped a lot and have brought me to this position that I am in today.
What is the most significant challenge that you’ve faced on your journey? And how did you overcome it?
Anger. I always had anger issues. The kitchen is a very hot and a very stressful space, any issue was intensified by the heat. I had to learn to calm myself down and not speak when I was angry. What I do is I countdown from 10 and then I take a deep breath before I react. So now, I don't just react like I used to before.
Give us examples of what would typically get you angry in the kitchen.
Sometimes servers come into the kitchen and they cross their boundaries - Like, there is an area where they are allowed to stand in the kitchen, they can’t be in the chefs’ work stations. And when they cross that line, it just pisses me off. Anything could happen - it’s a hazard. There are also times when they come into the kitchen and ask silly questions and that ticks me off. So yeah, anger issue. But now I’ve learned how to manage my anger. So I just give them straight answers - “No, it can’t be done.”
Has controlling your anger actually had any real impact on your culinary journey?
It has helped me work with other chefs better and work with people in general. I also know how to manage myself better - I don’t let things get to me as easily. I think if I still had my anger issues, I wouldn’t be where I am today.
Is there a moment in your career that really pivoted you and defined your path as a career? Is there one significant moment?
Yeah, it was when Chef Imoteda and Toni took over Atmosphere. That was when everything changed because before then, it was just...wuru wuru to the answer, let me use that word. Because the chefs there didn't have an idea of what it was like to run a kitchen. And I got in and just started doing the same thing they were doing until people that knew how the kitchen was supposed to run, came in and yeah, it all changed from there.
What advice do you have for young chefs and anyone else trying to come into the culinary industry?
Be calm. Don't stop learning. Be open-minded. Don't be lazy. The kitchen is not the place to be lazy. Be ready to learn in general and learn to work with people and don't be faster than your shadow. If prep is the most important thing in the kitchen, you need to learn how to prep. You need to learn how to organize yourself. Organization and prepping are extremely important. But being able to work with people is the most important thing in the kitchen. And you have to have respect. Even if your superior is 10 years younger than you, you need to have respect so you can learn. If you're not ready to learn, you cannot leap. So yeah, that's it.
You’ve mentioned learning a few times. What tools would you recommend upcoming chefs use to learn?
I watch a lot of Netflix videos - cooking competitions. I get a lot of recipes from cooking competitions. Instagram, as well. Most of the videos on my phone are food videos. Instagram, YouTube. And I always want to try to make something new so it’s not just about watching the videos but experimenting as well.
How do you stay inspired and continue to innovate in your cooking?
Seeing that the chefs before me are not stopping. They always want to do better. So that keeps me going. Chef Imoteda wants to learn. And every other chef I work with always wants to learn. So that keeps me going. I'm just starting and I don't consider myself to be a big chef. So I'm very humble and still want to learn. I want to break boundaries. And I want to have a name in the industry.
What are your goals or future aspirations for your career and for yourself in the culinary world?
To own my restaurant. That's a big one. To cook for my favorite artist, Wizkid. And I want my mom to watch me cook on the big stage. I know that would make her very, very proud. And my dad too. He's not with us, personally.
Final question: What are your eating habits like outside work? And where do you like to eat in Lagos?
I'm not going to lie, I don't eat too much. I love cooking and I taste the things that I cook. Even though the things I love eating the most, I can't eat (damn this shellfish allergy). But I mostly like the local places. I love Amala and I love beans, especially with bread. Yakoyo and Iya Oyo are my number one spots when I'm on the island. When I’m on the mainland, Iya Amoke for Amala and her bread and beans. There’s also this lady that makes Ewa Aganyin not far from my house. She's from Cotonou and I can't stop going there.
